When brushing or combing, be gentle and take your time. Be especially careful when removing mats or tangles. Brushing can and should be a pleasant experience for your pet as the gentle stroking feels good on your pet's skin. It does not take too many painful 'rips' through snarls, however, to make brushing a procedure your pet will try to avoid rather than invite. The best way to build trust and make this a pleasurable bonding time for both of you is to brush your pet often, preferably daily. This prevents problem mats and tangles from developing.

When you first get your puppy through about 9 months you must use a comb in order to prevent matting.    This is the type of comb.  Start with the bigger end then move to the smaller end.  Do this every evening while cuddling and start with the under belly.  If you find a mat work it out very gently without pulling.  Worse comes to worse cut it out.  Mats are very painful and grow right next to the skin.  You have been provided with the appropriate comb.  It is recommended you use your comb every night while rubbing paws and ears to get your puppy used to being touched.

As far as when to do which part of the grooming, here is a break-down for you:





Every 2 Months


Comb Hair


Trim nails

Trim Ear Hair


Veterinarian Teeth Cleaning

Brush Teeth

Visit the Groomer

Trim Butt

Yorkies need special attention paid to their teeth. Yorkies, like other toy breeds, are prone to tooth decay. Regular brushing of your Yorkie’s teeth is a good idea. There are many tooth cleaning products made for dogs, and you can find a tooth brush & paste at any pet supply store or at your Veterinarian. 

Also Yorkies tend to retain puppy teeth so their teeth must be evaluated at about 1 year of age by your Veterinarian.

Grooming tools I consider essential for Yorkie owners.

Combs, Rubber grip, flea comb (for under eyes and for fleas of course), and regular comb.

Mat Rakes, sharp.  Larger for main coat and smaller for belly and legs.  Be careful not to go too deep as these are very sharp.

Brushes - Pin Brush 

Safety scissors (All called Nose Hair Scissors for around pads of feet, eyes and nose.  

Beard Trimmers around butt (carefully and not too close) and smaller blade for pads of feet.  I prefer the Wahl Beard Trimmers that are electric and NOT rechargeable.

Untrimmed nails can cause a variety of problems including broken nails that are painful and bleed profusely.  In some cases, nails will actually curl and grow back into the dog's feet.  How many of us put off trimming our dog's nails until the inevitable veterinary check-up comes around and the veterinarian must do it? If you are like many pet owners, you may be hesitant to trim your dog's nails because you are afraid of cutting the quick of the nail, which may cause pain or bleeding. Once you learn how to do it, clipping your dog's nails is almost as easy as clipping your own.

When you are trimming your dog's nails, you are only cutting away the excess. Recognizing what is excess and where the nerves and blood vessels begin is what you need to know to make nail trimming a painless process for both you and your dog.

To trim your dog's nails:

  1. Assemble what you will need - a high quality pair of trimmers and some styptic powder, such as Kwik-Stop, Styptic Pads, even cayenne pepper or other products to stop bleeding if you nick the quick.
  2. You may want to sit on the floor with your dog, hold your dog in your lap, or have someone hold your dog on a table. Hold your dog's paw firmly and push on his pads to extend the nail. Locate where the quick ends. With clear or light nails, it is easy to see the pink color where the quick ends.
  3. Trim very thin slices off the end of the nail until you see a black dot appear towards the center of the nail when you look at it head on. This is the start of the quick that you want to avoid. The good news is that, the more diligent you are about trimming, the more the quick will regress into the nail, allowing you to cut shorter each time.
  4. In some cases, if the nails are brittle, the cut may tend to splinter the nail. In these cases, file the nail in a sweeping motion starting from the back of the nail and following the curve to the tip. Several strokes will remove any burrs and leave the nail smooth.
  5. If your dog will tolerate it, do all four feet this way. If he will not, take a break. If you accidentally cut the quick, wipe off the blood and apply Kwik-Stop or cayenne pepper to stop the bleeding.  I take a wet wash rag apply the Kwik-Stop and hold until the bleeding as stopped.  It is not serious and will heal in a very short time.

Some valuable tips:

  • Remember, it is better to trim a small amount on a regular basis than to try and remove large portions. Try to trim your dog's nails weekly, even if long walks keep them naturally short.
  • Make trimming time fun and not a struggle. Trimming your dog's nails does not have to be a chore or unpleasant. If your dog is not used to having his nails trimmed, start slowly and gradually work up to simply holding his toes firmly for 15-30 seconds.
  • When your dog tolerates having his feet held, clip just one nail, and if he is good, praise him and give him a tiny treat. Wait, and then at another time, do another nail. Continue until all nails have been trimmed. Slowly, you will be able to cut several nails in one sitting, and finally all the nails in one session.

I use cuticle nippers on puppies and then guillotine clippers on my older dogs.  Experiment with clippers until you find the right style for you.


Your puppy is too young to use over the counter flea shampoos.  Please see my handout on all natural flea protection.  Do not use human shampoos as they are not the right balance for dogs.  Over the Counter flea product shampoos can be used once your puppy is about 3-4 months old.

It is always helpful to take a picture to your groomers so that you get the haircut you want.  You cannot imagine the butchered haircuts I have seen.

This one is one of my favorites.

rs are encouraged to consult with qualified health car misuse   



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